Thursday, April 23, 2009


2nd February

Leaving Creel we head South to Cusarare, an indigenous Raramuri Indian village 22kms away. The name Cusarare means “Place of Eagles“ in English, and in addition to a cool sounding name, there is a lovely river hike culminating in a 30 metre cascade at the end of the picturesque route. 

Descending the rubble road in to the village, it’s immediately clear they don’t get too many gringos in these parts. Locals stare and enquiries about accommodation are met with an assortment of surprise, non comprehension and just plain amusement that we actually want to stop here. One local recommends returning to Creel! Another suggests waiting as the new hotel is not quite finished?? Eventually we find a family who have a private room and will take us in. The only snag is that the bathroom is shared - and it’s in another building.
In the bedroom of the family’s 2 sons..…
Oh well - nice and cosy then.

Having secured lodgings, we head out along the river - the hike more than making up for any strange bathroom arrangements…

Then the land rears up and begins to funnel the water into a steep sided, pine tree lined canyon….


Before we clamber down, around the sides of the falls. The view looking back towards the multi coloured  rock wall of the waterfall…

It’s a swelteringly hot afternoon in direct sunlight, yet the extreme range of night and day temperatures is highlighted in the icicles that still surround the flow - even at 3pm. Icy bombs drop occasionally as they warm and melt in the heat. Shaded pools are still icy cold…

A perfectly stationed day-time moon, set against the blue, blue sky provides a nice background to the cascade….

As does this kindly local who risks all to provide scale to the photo….

It’s the dry season in Mexico, so the river levels are low. It would just be great to return here in another season to see the torrent in full flow.
Maybe next trip….