Sunday, January 30, 2011

November 18th to 30th

I just couldn't be more relieved!!


This is not what I was expecting in Colombia, the standard of dentistry is amazing here - if you have the money to pay for it that is! Dentistry is private and there are a range of services available to suit all budgets. Not all of them look quite like this. I was also not expecting Marinella (our hotel receptionist) to come in 3 hours before her shift starts to personally accompany us to her own dentist to help fill out the forms and explain the situation. Many thanks go to her. The third thing I did not expect was the look of horror on the dentist's face as she began her examination....

This could be worse than I thought!

But it's not the treatment required that has her in shock; more the quality of previous treatment. She's very diplomatic, but I manage to tease out of her the fact that she is really very unimpressed with the standard of British dentistry. Some of the materials - like the mercury I have in my face were banned in Colombia 15 years ago. Furthermore she is curious as to why a couple of broken teeth I have are untreated. My NHS dentist refused to touch them saying 'nothing to worry about'. Worse is the fact that an X-ray reveals parts of broken tools left in another tooth after a root canal back home. Indeed the infection that now has me in agony is down to a botched repair job on a broken crown.

Turns out I need a weeks course of antibiotics injected under the tooth before I can have two root canals followed by two new crowns. Lucky me! It also turns out that in contrast to the 'jack-of-all-trades' dentists back home, here in Colombia everyone specialises. Marinella's dentist refers me to a specialist for the root canals and I will see another specialist for the crowns. The downside is that it looks like we will be staying in Popayan for a bit longer than expected.

It's not all bad - Popayan is a nice place to while away a bit of time. Iglesia Ermita on the hill was originally built in 1546...


Popayan is a fastidiously well maintained old colonial town with any number of whitewashed historical buildings and imposing churches....


Many impressive municipal buildings have amazing gardens in open courtyards....


At 1800m (6,000ft) the temperature is near perfect, but most importantly Popayan was declared a UNESCO city of gastronomy! The food and restaurants here are amazing. It would all be perfect, but for people insisting of sticking needles in my face.... and the incessant rains....



After four trips to various dentists, it's time for a break. I need a week for antibiotics to weave their magic so we decide to head over the mountains for a side trip to San Agustin. The ride involves a 3200m (10,600ft) pass over the Cordillera Central on a rocky road through Volcan Purace National Park. It also passes through the last stronghold of 'FARC', Colombia's notorious People's Army who make occasional guerilla raids throughout the area. With slight trepidation we head to the hills....

The first 28kms are mercifully paved as we begin the climb to 'Coconuco' through a series of steep climbs and sweeping descents through dense pine and eucalyptus....


The plan is to relax in the hot volcanic thermal baths set against a mountain backdrop but once again the day ends in deluge. Plans change and we settle for a cold shower and some Colombian TV. True to form, the next day is damp and drizzly but it's difficult to be too despondent as the scenery improves a notch or two, steep cliffs draped by waterfalls....


After Coconuco the Tarmac ends and the fun starts. Weeks of endless rain have turned what should be a hard packed dirt road to a quagmire that slurps at our tyres like sticky brown glue. The going is incredibly tough and it pays to stop and scrape a few pounds of clay-like gloop off the tyres every mile or so....


Once we enter the narrow mouth of the Cauca valley the gradient steepens and it's not just us struggling on the slippery surface. The road is totally blocked by two cement lorries heading for a quarry in 'Palatara'....


The one on the right is lodged against the earth bank at the roadside and leans at an alarming angle. There is real concern that the sodden ground will give way and it will crash down to the valley floor 200 metres below. The second wagon attaches a thick chain to try and haul it's stricken partner free, but only serves to polish the dirt floor as it's smoking tyres spin and gain no traction. At one point both become stuck and there is no room for even a couple of bikes to pass. We lose over an hour whilst one truck slowly inches itself free. The other is just abandoned on the hillside.

Rounding a corner we see another wagon overloaded with human cargo sink it's wheels into the soft rut on a cambered bend. It's outside wheels lift briefly and the whole thing threatens to topple as people jump free just in time to restore balance....



We are starting to have our doubts about this road as we climb out of the valley leaving stranded vehicles behind....


In distance we manage just 20kms, in altitude it's well over a thousand metres for the day when we roll, cold and exhausted in the freezing rain into Paletara; a small village centred round it's cement quarry. Strangely the woman in the restaurant cum guesthouse tells us there are no beds available despite the truckers outside assuring us there is room. Confused we make our way to an old outhouse that will rent us a hard wooden pallet in a communal room for the princely sum of US$2. The chickens that strut in and out of our room plus the burnt out bus in front are an added bonus! Fortunately there are no other guests - but there is one little helper who helps me prepare hot tea to stave off the chill....


It's a surprisingly cold night. We are at around 3000 metres (10,000ft) and breath is clear on the air as we wake to a misty morning....


Amazingly the mist burns off in a warm sun and we see our first blue sky in about two months. It's like somebody just came and switched the lights on and the landscape changes before our very eyes. All of Colombia has looked stunning, but there is such a transformation in direct sunlight. Suddenly there is shadow and there are little pockets of darkness nestled in the earth's folds. The whole landscape pops dramatically into three dimensions. It's been so long since we've seen it, it's a lovely surprise and we are rewarded with some clear views of Vulcan Purace's majestic cone....


High up on the 'Paramo' (high altitude grass lands) the road levels off and finally tops out. Our speed picks up, and now we dance our tyres between deep, water filled pot holes. This unusual habitat is densely populated by low bush, grasses and a strange flower found only here and parts of Northern Ecuador. The 'Frailejone' is a relation of the daisy - sort of a giant mutant cousin or something and thousands of them clump in waterlogged fields as far as the eye can see....


The day's ride is just a joy, blessed as we are with good weather - a real bonus at this altitude. We see maybe half a dozen cars and next to no people - it's the way cycle touring is supposed to be; just us, the bicis, some incredible landscapes, strange vegetation and a challenging road....


We do catch several glimpses of army encampments in amongst the bush though - evidence of the ongoing guerilla war taking place behind this placid Arcadian scene.

We drop short and overnight in some slightly less 'interesting' accommodation before taking the final leg into San Agustin, once more under grey skies. After our huge climb, we enjoy 60kms bumping and bouncing our way downhill through the rain, with the last part back on smooth, smooth Tarmac. A final sting in the tail is the steep climb up above the Magdelena River into town....


San Agustin is a UNESCO world heritage site of a little understood pre-Colombian tribe whose legacy was a series of burial sites decorated with carved megalithic sculptures. With time to kill before my next encounter with a needle and a drill we're off to explore some ancient culture....

203 comments:

1 – 200 of 203   Newer›   Newest»
Aaron said...

Scooby doo, where are you!?

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green investing said...

Wow, those are amazing photos and it sounds like an incredible trip. I think its cool that a so-called developing country has better nedical care in some areas than a western country!

Tex69 said...

I managed to read your blog from start to end. Like your style and pics. Makes me want to disappear to SA to practice my Spanish.

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