Friday, December 19, 2008

Mount St. Helens

October 11th to 15th

Past Mt Rainier, we head through national forest land on little used route 25. This is definitely tree country....



The road traffic changes....



Campgrounds are absent and we rough camp at the roadside and get a fire going.



Ascending we hit the snow line and the air is a tad chilly....



Route 99 leads directly towards the blasted, flattened cone of Mount St Helens, but floods last winter have left the last 10 miles impassable where the road was washed away. This is a view from 14 miles away and we wonder just how massive this bohemouth would look from up close....



Miles of valley below recover from the massive 1980 eruption that left 57 people dead. 250 homes, 47 bridges, 15 miles (24 km) of railways, and 185 miles (298 km) of highway were also destroyed. The eruption caused a massive debris avalanche, reducing the elevation of the mountain's summit from 9,677 feet (2,950 m) to 8,365 feet (2,550 m). Stumps of trees toasted in the catastrophy still stand sentinel over lush new growth....



Descending, the air grows damp and ghostly trees emerge eerily from the gloom...



A real contrast to the autumnal colour as we near Battle Ground near the Oregon border....



Oregon's reputation for cycle frienliness gets off to a great start with a purpose built cycle lane splitting a 6 lane highway on the I-205 bridge.

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Washington - Mount Rainier

October 9th to 11th

Leaving the Seattle cityscape behind, we head inland... and uphill.

We also hit our first snag - Interstates with no cycle friendly shoulder, and roadworks. Bikes become passengers, we the beasts of burden as we carry bikes and luggage over the debris....



Late in the season, campgrounds are now closed, ensuring we get the best pitch in the place....



This is bear country and panniers are hoisted aloft overnight. I worry that making food harder to reach, just makes us look more likely snack material...



The terrain begins to grow huge in scale....



As we get a glimpse of the distant snow capped peak of the volcano Mount Rainier, majestic at 14,411 feet (4,392 m)....



My rookie earns her stripes on her first pass and is promoted to "junior", a proud moment for both of us....



The descent is a blur of speeding trees and sweeping bends, before we earn the reward of motel bed for the night. Room with a view...

Monday, December 15, 2008

Washington State

October 2nd to 8th

Entering the US by ferry is a breeze. You still have to leave your fingerprints, but at least the customs officials behave like human beings and actually made us feel welcome entering the country. Contrast airport immigration... I need to investigate ferry crossings from the UK when I next visit.

We leave Anacortes via "Deception Pass" - a bridge to Whidbey Island - second largest island in the lower 48 states. Captain Vancouver exploring the region by ship in 1792 assumed the island to be a peninsula to the mainland. Upon discovering his mistake, he named the body of water separating the 2 lands Deception Pass. Conveniently, a bridge has been built since then...



We cycle south through moistly forested terrain which undulates sufficiently to keep the legs warm... It's all very picturesque and a good choice of routes to Seattle.



We cross back to the mainland on the Mukilteo ferry amidst a swarm of sea birds no doubt attracted to the feast churned up in the ferry propeller's wake. On other occasions whale and dolphin accompany crossings, sadly not today.

Time presses as we hit busy I99 heading south into downtown Seattle. We have a date to meet my brother and amazingly we manage to arrive within 3 hours of the appointed hour. I argue that 3 hours behind schedule out of 18 days by bike is close enough to be considered "on time". My brother struggles with these new definitions of time keeping, but he'll catch on....

Tourist time!! We hit the sights.... Brother Matthew and Sue....



Pike place market replete with artisans producing a range of souvenirs, and fish throwing sea food vendors....



We take an underground tour of the old city, constructed when Seattle was a supply town to miners struck by gold fever. Lacking adequate sanitation, town planners decided to construct a new city above the old one, a process taking a number of years and leading to such anomalies as roads being temporarily 30 feet above sidewalks, making crossings slightly hazardous - even resulting in several deaths. Present day buildings bizarrely show former windows and door ways scythed in half by the current street level. It's an excellent and irreverent tour run with a comedy slant - well worth a look.

We visit the Seattle's signature space needle building constructed for the 1962 World trade fair for stunning city views and impressive exhibition....



Underwater at the aquarium....



Of course we drink the obligatory coffee at Starbucks... Seattle is a great city and it's great to see my brother again for a few days....

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Chapter Two - Mexico

Monday 22nd September to Wednesday 1st October

Decision made - we're gonna tour Mexico!

So we get a flight to Vancouver....

Geographers might quibble that Vancouver is no where near Mexico - but they don't know about the great deal we got with Air Canada. Does leave us the slight problem of the whole of America being in the way..... true but Vancouver is a beautiful city and well worth the odd 1500 mile detour.... We explore Chinatown, and Stanley Park - North America's largest urban park.



And I've got a new rookie to break in - me bird Sue...



For some training we flex our legs on the near vertical, lung busting 1200m climb "The Grouse Grind" in pouring rain. Normally this affords incredible bird's eye views over the city and environs - unfortunately not today.

The weather is against us - we need to go South.

So we leave Vancouver heading North. Planning is not our strong point, but too many people talk about the Sunshine Coast north of Vancouver to ignore. They are right...



The land is fragmented by inlets and undulating day rides are punctuated by flatter rides on British Columbia's excellent (and cheap) ferry system. The largest in the world apparently! Ferries tend to be at the bottom of big hills.... Strange!



The ocean scenery is breathtaking in improving weather as we drift lazily past densely wooded islands....



Nice....



Sunset at camp. Powell River...



His'n'hers bicis at Ruby Lake....



We cross to Vancouver Island at Courtenay and finally begin heading South towards Mexico. This despite local persuasion to again head northwards on the Island for Canada's answer to the Galapagos Islands - a bold claim and one we reluctantly resist. I'll never know whether it was just idle boasting.

Vancouver Island is hugely mountainous in the centre so we stick to coast where the terrain flattens and the rookie and I make good speed. Another ferry at Mill Bay takes us towards Sidney where we can take the international boat to Anacortes, USA. It's a shame to miss Victoria, but we have a deadline in Seattle to meet my brother. We meet Linda in the queue for the ferry and are offered a large slice of Canadian good nature as she directs us to her house. Our last night in Canada is spent in good company with a warm bed after delicious pizza; secure that our freshly laundered clothing will smell better for the damp ferry crossing tomorrow. Should help with immigration...

Sunday, November 9, 2008

The End.... of the Beginning

18th Aug to 22nd Sept

Flying home gives me time to reflect....

6 months.
5,500 odd miles (roughly - computer broke)
4 countries.
127,000 metres accumulated altitude!!
2.5 million pedal revolutions (estimated)
1 accident - on the last day of riding!
Coldest - minus 24 degrees centigrade Bolivian altiplano.
Highest - 4400m Bolivian altiplano.
Falling off/dropping bike - too many to count.
Biggest day - 200km.
Punctures NONE - unbelievable, but true.
Bike breakdowns - none again - I ride a Thorn Nomad which is awesome.
Tyres - 2
Chains and sprockest - 1

Highlights - again too many to count, but.....

Best Scenery - Argentina 7 lakes - Every bend in the road reveals new eye candy.



Best Riding - Argentina. The pass down towards Mendoza. 80kms all downhill in stunning snow capped mountain scenery.



Best Hiking - Chile. Torres Del Paine, a mini mountain range with glaciers, multi coloured granite, and the Towers at Dawn



Best City - Tough One, Bolivia La Paz... oh and Chile Santiago.

Biggest Event - Tough again, Bolivia re-elects Morales AND The Chaiten Volcano eruption



Comedy Moment - Chile, The world's dumbest horse

Weird Scenes - Bolivia, Salar de Uyuni



Worst Roads - Bolivia outside Potosi



Best HospitalityMany many examples, but Marcelo at the closed pass to Mendoza is a stand out, buying us food and 2 nights accomodation as we froze in the snow.

Many many more...

And much of it shared with a great travelling companion Michael Maynes who was there for a big part of it - the highs and the lows.



South America is a place of extremes in many ways the geography, geology, climate, but one thing was constant - the hospitality of the people. Wherever I went this was a feature and a constant reminder that I need to avoid the sterotypes and media delivered misconceptions and experience things first hand before hardening my opinions.

This is the end of beginning as it's only the first chapter. I am continuing my travels, by bicycle of course, this time with a new traveling partner. My girlfriend Sue has finally seen the light and quit her job as a Maths teacher and we're planning (well looking at a globe) for the next leg....

Stay tuned for updates.....

Friday, November 7, 2008

Trip Ends

Monday 11th August to 17th August

52 hours on a coach!! 52 HOURS

I didn't want the expense and hassle of a flight back to Buenos Aires, and I knew a coach ride would not be fun. But.....

I could cope with the clapped out death trap of a bus for 16 hours to get to the Argentine border....
I could cope with the corrugated roads that give the back a work out to make the most sadistic chiropractor proud....
I could even cope with the window at my side that continually vibrated open to allow a minus 15 degree gale force wind to blow direct in my face....
And the 4 hour border crossing at five in the morning....

But 6 whole series of "Stairway to Heaven". Yes 6 series of a Chilean soap opera revolving solely round a Chinese family. This is a family that marries, argues, fights, divorces and gets re-married, then divorced again, sometimes in a single half hour episode. All in Spanish and all at top volume.... Repeated for 36 episodes. Somebody shoot me!!

To cap it all - I spend 6 untroubled months in South America, to finally develop stomach problems and diarrhea as I get on the bus. A bus with no toilet!!! No problem - just hang on for bathroom breaks.... until the bus breaks down, and after road side repairs, no more stops are allowed to catch up time!!! Aaaaargghhhh.

I overdose on Imodium. And my insides set solid.

The bus terminates on the outskirts of BA, and I am stranded with about 18 miles to go. Helpful bus staff inform me - ride to station, take train to underground, take underground to second train, take second train to BA centre, take third train out. No problem until I descend 3 flights of stairs to an underground that does not allow bikes. I then carry bike and gear back up 3 flights of stairs!!

And ride through rush hour BA... to have my first accident on tour. An errant taxi driver who tries to kill me by cutting across my lane and I make tyre imprints in his door panel. Seriously peeved by the last 2 days of bus travel and his lack of driving skills.... we communicate. Normally passive I am moved to threaten adding knuckle imprints to his angry face. A man of wisdom, he sees the ragged, maniacal glint in my eye - and retreats. Wise decision, stairway to heaven has me unhinged!

Finally the train station, a short ride and a warm welcome back at a good friend, Mick's place where my trip began sooooo long ago. Many thanks go to Mick and apologies for pretty much sleeping a 4 day visit away. 4 days of recuperation, then the flight home and tour's end.....

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Democracy!!

Sunday 10th August

An historic election!!!

No not that one.... I realise I am soooo out of date on this blog now and as I write this, another historic election has just taken place in America.... But back to Bolivia.

Evo Marales made democratic history by choosing to return to the electorate for re-election only half way through his 5 year term.... unprecedented in a country where elected leaders often retain power using tanks and guns rather than ballot boxes.

A local couple ponder on the eve of history on a deserted Saturday night on The Prado...



While campaign vehicles gather in La Paz city centre...



Rowdy, partisan Plaza Murillo awaits the peoples verdict....



At around 9pm Evo secures over 63% of the vote and makes his victory speech to jubilant supporters. Flanked by his cabinet his words promise progress and change in a country fiercely divided over oil and gas revenues....



As a salvo of pyrotechnics is launched....



And within minutes, the news is beamed around the world by CNN...



It's a privilege to witness this historic event and be amongst a nation celebrating real hope and faith in their democratic system. Real challenges lie ahead in averting serious splits as a divided country decides how to redistribute wealth generated by a few low lying regions rich in oil. It would be fascinating to spend more time here.... but tomorrow - a 50 coach ride back to Buenos Aires to catch a flight back home...

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Return To Bolivia

Thursday 7th to Saturday 9th August

Now I need to solve that tricky problem of being in Peru illegally! As I have no entry stamp in my passport, just turning up at the border is going to be a bit dodgy. 3 options....

1) Turn up at the border, act like I'm heading in the opposite direction - from Bolivia and entering Peru for the first time.
    Pros - I get my passport stamped and I can then just turn round and cross back to Bolivia.
    Cons - they might see my direction of travel and then it hits the fan.

2) Get close to the border, wait for dark, head off road, sneak over the border and back to the road.
    Pros - should work, and all a bit hollywood spy thriller - I like it.
    Cons - it's all a bit of an effort, and getting caught would be truly difficult to explain. Maybe not a good option.

3) Get to the border and see if I can simply walk back across.
    Pros - Not too much hassle and it worked getting in to Peru.
    Cons - Like just walking in to trouble?

To get to the border I decide on a Collectivo - one of the small converted vans that stack around 20 locals into the space designed for 10. The advantage is that I can jump out just before the border and it attracts less attention than does a gringo tourist bus. Then I can just hopefully cycle across the border and to Copacabana. That's the plan....

The collectivo is an uncomfortable, but good natured journey and the locals are chatty - curious about the only white face aboard. I alight at Yunguyo, the border town in Peru. This is what I somehow failed to see a few days ago when I entered Peru...



I try and blend into crowds milling round the border check point. Not easy being a paler shade of skin and pushing a fully loaded touring bike, but amazingly, I am able to just walk unchallenged past machine gun toting soldiers and barriers and stand bemused, once again on Bolivian soil...

Not wanting to tempt fate I delay celebrations and ride like a man illegally crossing a border - like rapidly out of there.

15kms later in Copacabana, I discover the bus for La Paz leaves in 40 minutes, so one rapid dose of street food later, I make the second bus trip of the day and arrive after dark in La Paz.

I am greeted off the bus by uniformed "Tourist Police" who refuse to let me ride. They insist, despite protestations, that I take a taxi to a hostel.

Next morning I realise I will be in La Paz for longer than planned as all transport is cancelled due to the Bolivian national elections taking place.

Walking the streets is like visiting a ghost town. Remembering the bussle and overload of just a few days ago, the town now has a surreal feel to it....



The total absence of cars turns main streets in to play grounds for kids....



But also lays bare some of the nastier problems the rush and crush of crowds serves to hide....



Night falls as the city holds it's breath and awaits the verdict from the masses....