Showing posts with label USA. Show all posts
Showing posts with label USA. Show all posts

Monday, March 16, 2009

Mexico!!

December 16th

San Diego to Mexico! Easy - 15 miles down I-805 and cross the border at Tijuana; this seems to be the popular route taken by other cyclists.
However it's madness.
Tijuna is a city of 1.5 million and this is the busiest border crossing in the world. It's a major freight route and I've seen the pictures of lanes and lanes of backed up traffic, plus the ride through the city is a nightmare.
We definitely need an alternative.

I-94 is a little used scenic highway heading East out of San Diego....



We travel inland 40 miles to the alternate crossing point at Tecate. This is a small border town that does nothing except supply the whole of Mexico with beer. 60,000 people live there and 59,995 of them work in the eponymously named Tecate factory. The other 5 people man the border crossing.

The ride is a joy along twistys up into the rocky hills...



Lunch stop...



And cresting the last hill in America; finally a first glimpse of Mexico...



Strange after so long, we are finally within sight of the country where this tour was supposed to start (before the slight Canadian and American diversions).

But first a border crossing and they are never what you expect. We need to close our US visa before leaving, but where to go? Unfortunately and unsuspectingly we cross a line and have already left the country before we can sort out the bureaucratic niceties, a point made clear by serious looking border guards wielding serious looking guns. We find a small office behind another building where Mexicans heading North are queuing and an officer takes our visas from us assuring us there is nothing else needed to be done. Slightly worrying as we were told we needed to officially close the visa within it's 90 day limit. Oh well....

Entering Mexico is similarly perplexing. In order to be allowed in to the country one must pay for a visa application. In order to pay the visa application one must visit a Mexican Bank. In Mexico.... So having entered Mexico to go to the bank, we return to the border to be allowed to enter Mexico.


Once we're officially allowed in and we visit the bank once more to get some Pesos.

Been looking forward to this bit - the budget was getting a little tight in the states. We hit a burrito stand and suddenly discover we can afford to eat like hogs again. I already like this country!!

We take stock....
Totally different here - full of life, and loud! There´s music, traffic and people everywhere in a chaotic boiling maelstrom of activity. Maybe it´s the contrast with the USA´s quiet and calm, you suddenly realise just how tranquil and ordered the States were.

And there are children here... The absence of something is often hard to recognise, and It´s only now that you suddenly realise how few children you see outdoors in the US. I know most people are safely ensconced in their cars so you do see fewer people generally, but kids are everywhere here and it´s a stark contrast. And a noisy one too!

We never really planned to tour the US and a bit of Canada - Mexico was always the destination. Starting further North was just a way for Sue to get some miles in before the greater challenges south of the border. When we began looking at flights, extreme cheapness meant we started a couple of thousand miles further North than planned - in Vancouver. And yet we're so glad we did. Apart from the stunning scenery - that's obvious from the photos, what's been such a surprise has been the hospitality and approachability of the people.

In Britain, strangers are regarded as just that - strange, something to be wary of and generally avoided. In North America, strangers seem to be regarded as... just people you've not spoken to yet. That's good. Mostly.
There are times when the old British reticence kicks in and you would rather just be left alone, but in the vast majority of cases it's been great.

And the hospitality has been amazing too, from being bought breakfast by hunters in Washington, to Bill and Tracy adopting us in Portland and providing a list of people down the coast who offered us accommodation... to any number of shop keepers who added little extras for the trip, to just countless little niceties.... I'll definitely be back for a coast to coast trip. it's been a great..... so far.

Chapter 2!! Mexico....

Saturday, March 14, 2009

San Diego

December 13th to 16th

In San Diego we meet up with Tim with whom we cycled into LA. like LA with Michael we get another much appreciated guided tour of the city.

And you can only go and visit decommissioned Air Craft Carrier the USS Midway! Commissioned in 1945 as the US navy's flagship, she was operational in Vietnam and during Desert Storm. There's an audio guided tour taking you through the vessel and it's collection of restored naval aircraft on the flight deck. We spend half a day there and it's not enough.



The San Diego skyline from the flight deck....



The F-14 Tomcat featured in Top Gun loaded up with Amraam and sidewinder missiles plus it's 20mm cannon. Gis a go....



There's a Huey helicopter gunship used in Vietnam, Skywarrior, FA-18 Hornet, F4 Phantom plus others. For me the star is this SH-3 SeaKing rescue helicopter that was actually involved in the rescue of astronauts after the Apollo missions 8, 10, 11, 12, 13. People who have boarded this craft - Neil Armstrong, Jim Lovell, Pete Conrad and Me!



View from the bridge, the catapult launching aircraft, 0 to 150mph in 3 seconds....



San Diego apparently "enjoys mild, mostly dry weather with 264 sunshine days annually". December has 33 millimetres of rainfall apparently, which is interesting as it all falls in a single day on the 14th. January has 58 millimetres and that falls on the 15th. It's the worst rainstorm in the city for 10 years. Apparently. No more rain needed until February. We hole up and drink tea. And think about Mexico.

Thursday, March 12, 2009

To San Diego

December 11th and 12th

Leaving Mickey behind in Anaheim, we cycle beautiful Palm tree lined boulevards to rejoin the Ocean at Newport Beach. Exclusive homes cling to the cliff side, sun light gleaming on their walls of glass.



Golden sunsets and a moon rise....



At San Onofre State Beach we discover the camp site has closed down. Of course we only discover this after the tent is pitched the stove is on and we are relaxing with a coffee. A passing ranger is adamant we need to move and we are forced to make an 8 mile nighttime retreat to San Clemente adding a tough 16 miles to the day. I hate retracing my steps especially past smoking nuclear reactors. We pass by 3 times....



At San Onofre the cycle route departs from the main highway and crosses Pendleton Marine Base. Dire warnings threaten arrest should you stray from the designated route and armed marines at check points demanding ID does little to increase the welcome....



Cycle path and emergency runway share a strip of tarmac - uncomfortable riding looking over your shoulder for incoming ordnance....



Big boys toys...



Foolishly I allow Sue to navigate and within minutes we are lost. I guess the idea of spending a night locked in a building with muscle bound, uniformed marines is less threat and more invitation to this girl.

Fearing the worst we are forced to stop and admit we are lost, whereuopon a big marine whips out a phone and calls for help....
Directions rather than backup! Sue is disappointed not to be arrested on the spot.
He then drives the route to make sure he is sending us the right way. Meanwhile a medic arrives and checks we have enough water for the trip and these guys just couldn't be more helpful.

We finally find our way off the base and it's just a few miles into San Diego. Passing Mission Beach as the sky turns to fire....



Sunday, March 8, 2009

Leaving LA

9th and 10th December

We ride out of Manhattan Beach on the cycle path along a strip of golden sand....



And then strangely through a multi-story car park....




And past Christmas Tree Lane with it's one mile plus of huge Christmas decorations....



And past the industrial heartland of Long Beach....



All interesting stuff, but we're going to....
DISNEYLAND!
Yes DISNEYLAND!!!
Disneyland is NOT for kids.
It's for big people who act like kids.
I've always wanted to go to Disneyland and I'm soooo excited I'm nearly sick.

And Uncle Walt and Mickey have even put up the Christmas decorations for us...



And you can go underwater on a submarine....



And on a space ride on Space Mountain rollercoaster, and to Critter Country and ride Splash Mountain and see 3D cinema using really cool looking shades...



And go to Adventure Land to see Indiana Jones and go to Toon Town....



And go to New Orleans and be a Pirate of the Caribbean.
And at night it's all lit up and there's fireworks and everything...



It's totally brill and I love it!

Thursday, March 5, 2009

LA

December 7th and 8th

Having a tour guide in LA is great, especially when they provide the wheels as well... We hit the sights with Michael and friend Andrea for a couple of touristy days....



This the world famous Getty Centre with it's fabulous gardens, architecture, museums and galleries. You can spend days here. Built on the Santa Monica mountains it's a good place to start a city tour as it affords fantastic panoramic views of the city....



The art on display is incredible including pre 20th century European paintings, drawings, illuminated manuscripts, sculpture, and decorative arts plus 19th and 20th century American and European photographs....



But it's the outside environment that does it for me. The gardens and building itself are the real highlights....



And the city backdrop is magnificent....



We tour sunset strip, where driving slowly enough to take photos is a hanging offense. Michael risks it and we get honked each time the speedo drops below 40. Damn tourists! I get to see the Whiskey a go go where The Doors started up, still there after nearly 40 years. Plus the rich streets of Beverly Hills Bel Air.

The famous Hollywood sign. Not sure what Sue said - but she deserved this....



Cheers Maynes for the hospitality. Great catching up and here's to the next time when Team Miguelitos rides out....

Monday, March 2, 2009

To LA

December 5th and 6th

Santa Barbara is about 90 miles from LA, a one day push, or a more leisurely 2 day cruise. Given the company and scenery, what's the rush. Anyway Tim and Eddy tour in a more coffee shop and cake type way and that sounds like an outstanding plan. We're not sure what to expect from the next couple of days. Think Los Angeles; your next thought is seldom "hmmmm sounds cycle friendly". I'm a bit worried we might get munched in the sprawl and traffic....

Still, got some stunning beaches to admire for now and we'll worry about that later. After some great riding along the flats with Tim and Eddy, we hit Malibu! A sign helpfully informing us there are "27 miles miles of scenic beauty". I'm thinking "that sign should be in braille". If you can see the sign, there's a fair chance you might just have noticed already. It's gorgeous.

How very baywatch....



Imagine the views from the hillside palaces....



This is our lunch stop....



And dispelling all fears, this is the ride along the outskirts of LA, as busy highway 101 drops us directly on to a tarmac strip along mile after mile of golden sand. How very fine...



Finally we are on our approach to LA and I contact Mr Michael Maynes, a ciclista legend of gargantuan proportions, and sometime cycling partner from previous rides in Argentina and Chile. He agrees to meet us at the Santa Monica pier so we can stay with him at his home in Manhattan Beach.

Beers while we wait....



Then time to enjoy the fair on the pier....



And meet some other eccentric characters on tandems, plus Steve and Gary on a beautifully restored 1975 Schwinn and high rise cruiser....



Saying farewell to Tim and Eddy after 2 days of fantastic riding. Guys it was a lot of fun. Memorable!



Then the old crew is back together for brief ride into the LA sunset....

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Santa Barbara

December 3rd to 5th

There are real contrasts moving down the Californian coast as you move out of the laid back, tree hugging, cannabis farming North to the La La land vortex of Ray Ban touting hollywood style posing... It's all getting very expensive. Camp site rates have soared from $3 per person to $5 and showers now cost 25c - it's all getting way too much. We enquire about rooms, but rates in Santa Barbera are in the $150 to $600+ range. We head back to the tent.

But Santa Barbera is just gorgeous.



The "American Riviera", coastline trends West to East, unique for the Californian coast. The palm tree lined town is backdropped by the beautiful Santa Ynez mountain range we just crossed, and enjoys it´s dream climate by a sea becalmed. The famous surfer dude beaches are further south where the coast resumes it´s more normal North South orientation where the waves pick up again.

Even the courthouse and former prison building here is stunning. Well, you can´t have the prisoners complaining can you....



You can take a free guided tour of the Spanish Colonial style building and see it´s facinating mural room, still a functioning courtroom. All four walls depict incredible historical scenes including Juan Cabrillo´s landing here in 1542 and the building of the famous Santa Barbara mission. There is a beautiful sunken quadrangle with gardens whilst the interior has Tunisian tiling and hanging lanterns in a Moorish style. It´s superb...



Hanging in the law library are ancient maps depicting California as an island some way off the coast of America.



Arriving back at the campsite we are warned we have outstayed our welcome and need to leave. Apparently there is a one night limit for tents to avoid vagrants moving in. We do manage to get a second night after persuading the gun toting ranger we only LOOK like bums, but it serves to highlight another side to Southern California.

Two other cyclists have moved in - Tim and Eddy from San Diego and we agree to leave together in the morning. Tonight a sunset... Tomorrow we ride in a pack....

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Leaving Santa Ynez Valley

December 3rd

Santa Ynez valley is flat. But Santa Barbara is behind them there hills and the road suddenly starts to rise steeply.....



We leave the main road and take a more cycle friendly route, an historic 19th century coach road passing through scenic woodland and passing beneath the main road up on that there bridge....



Once you´ve spent nearly 2 hours and 7 miles climbing 700 vertical metres (2300 feet) it´s hard to believe signs like this....



And this....



But then this happens....



And apparently the road IS closed. And the work men absolutely refused point blank to let us pass, despite being only 50 metres from rejoining the main highway. Something about building a bridge and real danger and blah blah blah.
These guys just don´t know what real danger is.
Real danger is having to explain to Sue that with 50m to go we need to turn round, drop 700 metres, rejoin the main road and then climb back up those 700m again.

Still, gives us a chance to get the view from the top of that bridge back on to that road we took 4 hours ago....



Not gonna tell you what Sue is saying in this picture. Ooooh naughty girl. Wash your mouth out with soap....