Monday, March 31, 2008

Torres Del Paine 5

Saturday 29th

Day 5. Day 5 starts before dawn.

To people that know me, that is not normally possible, and there is no such thing as "before dawn". Days end and magically start again the following day without this mythical "dawn" business.

But this place has a strange effect and Jeff and I duly rose and hiked an hour up a steep boulder field by torchlight. Well we started by torchlight, until we realised that we could see enough by the half moon glowing in a perfectly clear sky. Hiking by moonlight is cool!

Just enough time at the top to break out the stove for Jeff to brew the Mate (pronounced mat-ay) - a foul tasting, bitter, tea like herb drunk by the gallon in South America, then test the valley sides for echoes (very satisfying), before the sun rose.

Clear days are about 20 per year here, and we got the number one! Sunlight strikes the tops of the towers and it´s like a neon show after that with the tower tips blushing crimson, which slowly creeps down the rock like blood as the sun rises higher. Awesome is a good word here.





For about an hour the colour slowly heats up through burnt orange to amber, all set off by the bluest sky I´ve seen since Buenos Aires. The sun strikes the tiny glacier which starts to grumble and rumble and melt down a crack in the rock. It was just a truly magical natural son et lumiere show. To cap it there´s a small lake and as the wind was curiously absent, the towers are doubled in reflection. Perfect.







And the rock wall looks just like the gates to the Mines of Moria. I spoke "friend", but the damn things were broken by the creature in the lake and remained obstinately shut. I could not enter.



After 2 1/2 hours I managed to tear myself away, hike down and break camp.

And the mice had got me. Hung all my foodstuff up a tree - but they can obviously levitate.
And open zips.
I swear the top pocket of my pack was closed, but my chocolate inside was shredded.

Hiking back down the steeps back towards the lake I wimped out of doing the full "circuit" as this is the end of the shorter "W" hike. Sore leg for 5 days - iced in rivers every night - and the prospect of 5 more days, I justified it to myself that I would not top dawn at the towers. And wimped out.

Someone was watching, so I missed the bus - I literally saw it go. Jeff left the towers before me as he was finishing anyway and I saw him in the window looking like a man who arrived slightly before me. I was 1 minute late and for once a bus in Chile left on time. So I waited 5 hours and got back just in time to claim an overspill bed in "The Cave" at the "Erratic Rock" hostel - the best hostel in Puerto Natales. Bill the owner made me say that, but it´s true.

12 comments:

Wendy said...

just trying this to see if it works

wendy & stephen said...

just finished reading your adventures from day 1,sitting on the edge of my seat waiting for more!!!!thought wales was the most hilliest,wettest & windiest place -
now i know its not.great pictures can't wait for the next lot

Barbara said...

Hi Martin, I've so enjoyed reading your blog and the photos are just spectactular, particularly in the Torres del Paine. This is a wonderful record of your adventure. Take care, Barbara

Sween in SAmerica said...

Good to hear from people. More to come..... Updates as it happens.... and I can find a good internet cafe!

Anonymous said...

Very Interesting!
Thank You!

Chenzhen 20160303chenzhen said...

yeezy boost
burberry outlet canada
tiffany and co outlet
christian louboutin uk
instyler max
louis vuitton bags
asics gel kayano
michael kors outlet online
michael kors outlet online
oakley sunglasses
pandora jewelry outlet
michael kors outlet online
canada goose jackets
timberland boots outlet
ghd hair dryer
adidas shoes
hollister clothing
louis vuitton pas cher
oakley sunglasses outlet
nike huarache
adidas superstar white
hermes outlet
tiffany jewelry outlet
coach outlet online
abercrombie outlet
omega
black timberland boots
nike running shoes
armani exchange
michael kors outlet online
ray ban outlet
coach outlet online
kate spade uk
north face outlet
nike tn pas cher
nike huarache black
versace sunglasses
kobe bryant shoes
nike blazer
stan smith adidas
chenzhen2016618

Mohamed Ali said...


الشرق الاوسط شركة نقل العفش بالدمام متخصصه فى نقل اثاث وعفش بالدمام والخبر والجبيل والقطيف والاحساء
شركة نقل عفش بالدمام
شركة نقل اثاث بالخبر
شركة نقل اثاث بالجبيل
شركة نقل عفش الجبيل
شركة نقل عفش بالدمام
شركة نقل عفش بالقطيف
شركة نقل اثاث بالاحساء
شركة نقل عفش بالخبر
نقل عفش بالدمام
شركة نقل اثاث بالجبيل
شركة نقل عفش بالخبر

Mohamed Ali said...



شركة نقل اثاث بالدمام التفاؤل شركة نقل اثاث بالخبر كما انها افضل شركة نقل اثاث بالجبيل نقل عفش واثاث بالجبيل والخبر والقطيف والدمام
شركة نقل اثاث بالدمام
شركة نقل اثاث بالجبيل
شركة نقل اثاث بالقطيف

Mohamed Ali said...


افضل شركة تنظيف خزانات ومنازل وشقق بالمدينة المنورة شركة غسيل خزانات ومكافحة حشرات بالمدينة المنورة ونقل عفش بالمدينة المنورة مؤسسة صفوة المدينة
شركة غسيل خزانات بالمدينة المنورة

Mohamed Ali said...



فرسان النيل هى الاولى فى نقل العفش بالدمام هي شركة نقل عفش بالخبر وشركة نقل عفش بالجبيل والدمام وشركة نقل عفش بالقطيف والدمام وشركة نقل عفش بالاحساء وشركة نقل عفش بقيق وراس التنورة
شركة نقل عفش بالدمام
شركة نقل اثاث بالدمام
شركة تنظيف بالجبيل
شركة نقل عفش بالجبيل

Mohamed Ali said...


اهم شركات نقل العفش والاثاث بالدمام والخبر والجبيل اولقطيف والاحساء والرياض وجدة ومكة المدينة المنورة والخرج والطائف وخميس مشيط وبجدة افضل شركة نقل عفش بجدة نعرضها مجموعة الفا لنقل العفش بمكة والخرج والقصيم والطائف وتبوك وخميس مشيط ونجران وجيزان وبريدة والمدينة المنورة وينبع افضل شركات نقل الاثاث بالجبيل والطائف وخميس مشيط وبريدة وعنيزو وابها ونجران المدينة وينبع تبوك والقصيم الخرج حفر الباطن والظهران
شركة تنظيف خزانات بجدة
شركة نقل عفش بالرياض
شركة نقل عفش بجدة
شركة نقل عفش بالطائف
شركة نقل عفش بالدمام
شركة نقل عفش بمكة
شركة نقل عفش بالمدينة المنورة
شركة نقل عفش بينبع
شركة نقل عفش ببريدة
شركة نقل عفش بالخرج

Gege Dai said...

pandora jewelry
michael kors outlet
ugg boots
versace sunglasses on sale
oakley sunglasses
michael kors outlet online
cheap jordan shoes
juicy couture outlet
adidas nmd runner
ferragamo outlet
coach outlet
fitflops sale clearance
supra shoes sale
ugg outlet
cheap oakley sunglasses
tiffany and co jewelry
ugg outlet uk
marc jacobs sale
celine outlet online
mulberry handbags
abercrombie outlet
uggs outlet
cheap nfl jersey
ugg boots
kate spade handbags
michael kors outlet clearance
ferragamo outlet
toms shoes
ray ban sunglasses
michael kors outlet
kobe bryants shoes
longchamp pliage
michael kors outlet online
michael kors handbags
ferragamo shoes
nike uk store
mulberry handbags
0805jianxiang