Under Construction

March 23rd to 25th

Circumnavigating the lake to the west and south, we look back over fields of blue agave plants with Lake Chapala behind backed by mountains.... 

It's an easy amble on flat tarmac and the miles fly. The heat of the day is really starting to be a factor now and it's 2pm when we reach the fork where the road swerves away from the lake towards Mazamitla. We know there's another tough, 1000m climb coming up and we hear the road is 'not good', so we decide to tackle it on fresh legs in the morning. The guy who tells us about the road also owns a taco stand and he's very persuasive.

Early next morning we discover why the road is 'not good'. It's something to do with the fact it's not built yet...

It's hot sweaty work climbing out of the lake basin and dust thrown up by construction workers rapidly turns to mud as it sticks to wet skin. Construction equipment lines the road as we look back at the dip in the earth we are struggling out of...

Much of this region holds minerals under the rock and mountains, including iron; which explains why the landscape is turning Martian....

This is tough riding as the sand prevents traction and bogs the wheels down, hindering forward momentum. Passing cars kick up a cloud and we eat dirt. In places tankers damp down the dust spraying water from huge pipes. They are bemused as we ride through the deluge, but it's a welcome relief from soaring temperatures - and a chance to clean off some mud. 

And suddenly it all changes. 

Like teleporting from Mars back to earth, the world stops being red and becomes a green and pleasant land. It actually reminds me of England....

And 8kms (5 miles) further on, we are in Switzerland in the alps....

It's five hard, hard hours and just 40kms (25 miles) later when we roll in to Mazamitla, a "Pueblo Magico" or magical town. The Mexican Ministry of Tourism decided in 2001 to promote 32 towns around the country that offer this magical experience. In their words:-

A "Magical Village" is a place with symbolism, legends, history, important events, day-to-day life – in other words, "magic" in its social and cultural manifestations, with great opportunities for tourism.

It's a shame then that we feel so beat up after the ride. To our tired eyes and aching bodies it just looks like a small town with lots of tat vendors and we need to sleep.

Riding out the next day though, we are in a better mood to apreciate the beautiful surroundings and much of the town has been built to mimic a style of Swiss chalets, all golden wood and sloped rooves. It's all very nice and echoes more natural Alpine themes found in the mountains.

We spend the morning falling out of those mountains. Where yesterday's total of just 40kms took 5 hours, today they fly by in just 60 minutes. We drop out of the sky onto the fertile valley floor.

Riding past fields, recently relieved of crops, we look back at yet another line of mountains we have tackled on our long, long journey....

 

We ride into Ciudad Guzman and contemplate the next one to come, our biggest challenge to date....