Sunday, May 24, 2009

Mexico's Pacific Coast

March 31st to April 2nd

After a couple of days off the bikes spent exploring Colima's fake colonial style buildings - the real ones having long since been demolished by earthquakes, we feel refreshed enough to leave the city. Skirting the last tendrils of the mountain range, we drop the last few hundred metres off the land to the edge of Mexico....

The temperature rises; it's rapidly approaching the warmer days of summer now, something we've been shielded from at loftier altitudes in the sierras and it's way hotter than we're used to. I get a puncture amongst the frequent pieces of tyre shrapnel lying on the road's shoulder, their soft rubber hiding lethal shards of steel binding, and run rivulets of sweat as I replace the tube. Oblivious, Sue rides on for several kilometers before realising I am no longer with her. To assuage her worry, she finds a taco stand and gorges on carnitas and fresh mangos.

And then we are amongst coconut plantations! 

As far as the eye can see..... rank and file of symmetrically planted trees march off in ever decreasing size into the distance

I never knew coconut trees were so prolific. Each tree sports up to 50ish large green football sized fruits, hidden amongst the palm leaves some 20 metres overhead. That's a lot of coconuts mutiplied by a lot of trees, running mile after mile along the highway. It's no surprise then then we start to encounter road side vendors, each with a pickup truck weighed down with produce. 15 pesos (less than a dollar) buys 2 from a machete wielding salesman, who hacks the top off the nut and produces a straw with a flourish. There's about a litre of milk inside and it's delicious. Neatly slicing the drained fruit in 2 and carving a spoon from the woody case, we eat the flesh which is so fresh it is soft and spongy - excellent snack food for passing cyclists.

We finally start to smell the ocean and the road turns, running parallel to it. Several tracks disappear off to the side in search of hidden beaches. At Boca de Apiza we take one and ride 3 miles through banana plantations before once again reaching the sea. 

The Pacific Ocean! 

It's the first time we've seen it since Northern Baja last December and we've got it to ourselves - this beach paradise is totally deserted. Camping Robinson Crusoe style....

The next days ride is simply gorgeous and such a contrast from the austere mountain beauty we have grown accustomed to. Now the senses are assaulted.
Sight -  just so much greenery, vegetation everywhere, mangos, bananas, coconut and papaya.
Smell - the scent of the ocean and all that verdancy, the air is heady.
Sound - a cacophany of buzzing cicades and bird screeches, an aural battering ram.

We leave Colima state and enter Michoacan, reputedly one of Mexico's most beautiful. At a tiny, undiscovered beach town of Maruata we find a restaurant with a view and consider the fish menu....

The next days ride is tough as the road turns in land for a while. Highway 200, so called because of all the 200 metre climbs up and over the fingers of the mountains as they reach and dip into the cooling water. We get occasional glimses of rocky beaches below as the road rides high above them....

Next week is Santa Semana, a huge Mexican holiday where hoards of city dwellers evacuate the hot choked city streets and hit the beaches. In the lull before the storm I negotiate my way into an amazing beach cabin for under 15 dollars; ocean view, private bar, pool the works, and completely empty. 

The sunset from our sun deck.....


Whitney said...

Those photos look like Hawaii. Are you sure you haven't been doing any underwater cycling? ;-)


Sween in SAmerica said...

This boy gets about...

No I promise it's still Mexico. sounds like I need to get to Hawaii though if it looks like this.

Sorry we're going to miss you when you make your trip to the UK, it would have been great to see you. Planning a trip to Puerta Vallarta anytime soon? We could meet there....

Unknown said...

cheap jordans, cheap jordan, jordan shoes for cheap, ugg australia, ugg, wholesale jordan shoes, Cheap LV Handbags, uggs on sale, Bags Louis Vuitton, ugg pas cher, ugg soldes, wholesale jordan shoes, Cheap jordans, cheap jordans, Cheap Nike jordan shoes, Discount Louis Vuitton, air jordan shoes, cheap nike jordan shoes, discount nike jordans, Discount LV Handbags, Cheap Louis Vuitton Handbags, uggs outlet, cheap jordan shoes, wholesale jordan shoes for sale, ugg boots

Unknown said...

burberry sacrf
burberry sale
tory burch outlet
tory burch outlet online
tory burch handbags
tory burch sandals
tory burch sale
tory burch flats
tory burch shoes
air jordan 4
air jordan 11
air jordan 13
air jordan 6
air jordan gamma blue
air jordan concord
air jordan 10
air jordan 5
air jordan 9
lebron 12
kobe bryant shoes
air max 2015
supra shoes
oakley sunglasses wholesale
oakley outlet
oakley sunglasses
oakley vault
oakley sunglasses wholesale
cheap ray ban sunglasses
ray ban aviator sunglasses
ray-ban sunglasses

chenzhen said...

the north face outlet
oakley sunglasses wholesale
ed hardy
ray ban sunglasses
yeezy boost 350 balck
louis vuitton borse
reebok outlet store
white converse
louboutin shoes
jordan shoes
cheap ray-ban sunglasses outlet
cheap jordans
jordan pas cher
michael kors handbags
nike roshe run
adidas pure boost black
christian louboutin shoes
bottega veneta sale
omega speedmaster
coach factory outlet
nike air force black
air max
coach factory outlet
gucci handbags outlet
lebron james shoes 2016
longchamp uk
louis vuitton handbags
stephen curry basketball shoes
adidas nmd uk
cartier love ring
michael kors canada
burberry outlet stores
nike flyknit racer
rolex submariner
nike free run flyknit
coach factory outlet
ray ban outlet store online
sac longchamp

Unknown said...

reebok shoes
tory burch outlet
fitflops sale clearance
michael kors handbags outlet
mulberry bags
ralph lauren outlet
louis vuitton pas cher
fitflops shoes
ugg outlet
nike tn pas cher
montblanc pens
cartier outlet store
louis vuitton bags
new balance shoes
louis vuitton bags cheap
ugg outlet
ugg outlet
adidas wings
fred perry polo
polo ralph lauren
mulberry sale
beats headphones
ralph lauren outlet
mulberry uk
michael kors outlet online
converse shoes
fitflops sale
pandora outlet
burberry sunglasses on sale
adidas outlet
cheap jordan shoes
michael kors handbags on sale
michael kors outlet
nike air max 2015
mulberry handbags sale
lululemon pants

chenlina said...

polo ralph lauren
christian louboutin paris
oakley vault
abercrombie outlet
toms outlet
rolex watches
louis vuitton outlet
oakley vault
mont blanc pen
coach factory outlet
uggs for cheap
rolex submariner watches
giuseppe zanotti sandals
michael kors outlet
tiffany outlet
cincinnati bengals jerseys
mlb jerseys
official michael kors outlet
ugg italia
louis vuitton outlet
nike roshe run
ugg boots
replica watches
true religion jeans
michael kors
true religion jeans
oakley sunglasses
tory burch outlet
uggs on sale
pittsburgh steelers jerseys
fitflops sale clearance
ugg boots
kobe 11 shoes
louis vuitton handbags
coach factory outlet
canada goose uk
ralph lauren polo
oakley sunglasses
coach outlet online
kobe bryant shoes