Monday, July 19, 2010

Lago Arenal

July 11th to 16th


The first couple of days riding in Costa Rica is fairly dull. The terrain is totally flat and uninspiring which is a real boon to us! We can now get some easy miles in and toughen up both the legs and our tender nether regions after our long break.


In stark contrast to the cerulean skies of the dry season, we ride beneath a slate roof – heavy black clouds that look ominous and heavy. Without warning, the wind can whip up from nowhere and the clouds burst, smashing heavy water droplets on to the road surface. They rebound in a fine spray above the Tarmac before settling back to help form temporary rivers. We are constantly drenched and nothing dries out in the humid air. Each morning, we pull on still-damp riding gear that is slowly taking on the nasty odour of wet rot and we have to try and keep our distance when talking to locals.


In Liberia, we stop to admire a particularly violent storm....



Thunder detonates like a shell directly overhead and simultaneously from several directions at once. It's like a scene from a World War II blitzkrieg attack – without all the damage of course. Lightning is constant; a strobe light that flickers on and off drawing the eye here and there, trying to track the jagged forks of brilliance as they live and die in an instant. The ground is waterlogged in seconds and thereafter turns to liquid.


The roof of our hotel is no match for the battering and we wake up with an inch of water on the stone floor of our room. All our kit is soaked and we take a day to try and dry out – after moving to another room that is.


Riding through Canas, we turn towards Arenal Lake and our first real test as the land rises steeply into the Tilaran Range of mountains. Our mileage drops to a new tour low – 22kms to Tilaran one day, followed by 32kms to Nuevo Arenal the next as gradients approach the ridiculous. It's nice however to leave the flatlands behind and the scenery improves dramatically.


This is cattle country and the pastureland is so rich and green....



In the distance we spot what looks like the finest water park invented by man – a 75 metre helter-skelter ride dropping into a 200m pipe that zooms down the hillside.



Rather boringly as we get closer it turns out to be part of a hydroelectric plant. Lake Arenal is man-made, created by the cool sounding 'ICE' company (Costa Rica's power company) who flooded a couple of villages; Arenal and Tonadora (presumably after moving the people out) to create a water and power supply.


After climbing for what seemed like a leg burning eternity we drop back down and catch our first views of Costa Rica's famous beauty spot, Lake Arenal...



The lake varies from 100 to 200 feet deep depending on rainfall and the crocs mean swimming is not recommended.


Unfortunately it's close to our last view as a storm suddenly blows in and stinging rain takes our visibility down to nothing.


Leaving Nuevo Arenal the next day skies are clearer. After Honduras and Nicaragua, the well tended entranceways to hidden lake retreats come as a bit of a surprise. There is money here! Many Americans have holiday homes around the lake, but there are also a number of excellent five star luxury spa hotels here as well. We haven't seen uniformed valets around immaculately tended and manicured gardens since I can't remember when and it's all very un-Central American. I don't think we can afford to stop so we head on before we lower the tone!


Suddenly the hotels are no more, the neat lawns are past and deep jungle encroaches right up to the road again....



You have to be careful taking water breaks – this guy was eyeing the catch of the day in his giant web literally a metre a way from where we sat...



All the wet jungle is starting to take it's toll on us! Bites and stings are a constant nuisance and for a change I am rejected, Sue being judged a far more tasty treat. For every bite I receive, she seems to get 30 and after a particularly bad chomping her face swells up like a prize fighters after a grudge match that goes the distance. A row of bites along her forehead threatens to close her eye entirely and the bridge of her nose is more Golden Gate than aquiline.


Being the sympathetic type, I just can't resist humming the theme tune to 'Rocky' and getting her to re-enact a couple of scenes. Suzy is not amused!


Sadly it begins to pour again and the spectacular views of the majestic 1700m cone of Arenal Volcano behind the lake are shrouded in low cloud.


The lake is still stunning in an angry brooding sort of way....



Then, for but a second the veil is lifted and the grey spectre of a volcano briefly materialises....



We hole up in 'La Fortuna', base to a thousand tourists in search of high adrenaline adventure. Every other building is a hostel and hundreds of operators compete to entice travellers onto their tour buses....



It's a pretty little town backdropped by a picture perfect volcanic cone, unfortunately spoiled by it's soulless pursuit of the tourist dollar.


In it's favour though, we do discover 'Chan' here.


Tiny black seeds soaked overnight in sugar water produce a frog spawn like gloop with a texture to match. It's a bit like wall-paper paste with bits of grit added in and the whole thing wobbles when you shake the glass....



Costa Ricans (Ticos) drink it by the bucket load and swear by it's ability to cure any stomach complaint. Despite appearances, it tastes absolutely delicious!


And finally.... finally; after a quest that started way, way back in Mexico – I, at last get a half decent shot of that demon species that is called 'hummingbird'. I know not why this one failed to teleport away from the camera lens in time – maybe it is damaged in some way, maybe they just don't work properly in the rain - wet circuitry all shorting out or something? I know it's not the best photograph ever – but it is still a personal triumph....


GOTCHA....